Stefan's Bastelkiste

Pinboard kerbin.sds.world/public

Portal kerbin.sds.world AntiFishing

1. install docker and minikube.... should not be that hard Note with minikube dashboard in an extra terminal one can see what's going on in the minikube cluster (rancher like but I want a local Rancher so on we go)

2. from https://rancher.com/quick-start/

   sudo docker run -d --restart=unless-stopped -p 80:80 -p 443:443 rancher/rancher

   Note make sure port 80 and 443 are free

3. goto https://localhost, set a password.

4. NOT sure what to set as Rancher Server URL... maybe host.minikube.internal ?!!?1
5. Add Cluster, Import, name: minikube
6. copy the curl line and change host.minikube.internal to localhost curl --insecure -sfL https://host.minikube.internal/v3/import/rqvnzk6xhpm5ksdr4hhtnlffc5s2zcrwr4dqqkpxhdc76rnvf75bn9.yaml >test.yaml
7. edit the test.yaml , replace extensions/v1beta1 with apps/v1 rbac.authorization.k8s.io/v1beta1 with rbac.authorization.k8s.io/v1 localhost with host.minikube.internal
8. then kubectl apply -f test.yaml should run without errors

Ok does not work to be continued....

Go a lot of us are now in home office for some reason.

I cannot have no or low noice, maybe it's tinitus thing I do not know... so I have music playing while working, which can be a "problem" with that voice/video chats these days.

Oh I play the music on my private PC and for reason not on the work notebook. Having not much space I have KVM switch. And I lazy.. so switch to the pc, mute/stop and switch back is simply way to much work.

After some googling Arduino Lenonardo or (pro) Micro (my choise) with 32u4 chip to the rescue, it is pretty easy to make a keyboard out of. Yes there is that V-USB for cheaper Arduinos but I'm lazy.

I had some Clear Arcade Buttons in the bin from Pimoroni

So I did a little CAD in Fusion360, some 3D printing, soldering, simplest coding and I had this

Possible upgrades: - RGB!!!1!11!! like these Pimoroni RG Arcade Buttons No idea howto keep track of the buttonstate yet. - moare buttons

To have a bridge from an ethernet port to a wifi, just install a ProxyARP
Make sure the dhcp-helper service is enabled.

sudo systemctl enable dhcp-helper sudo systemctl start dhch-helper

Reboot the pi and be happy

I did this with a Raspberry Pi (2) and a edimax USB WiFi dongle.

bluetoothctl -a You should get a different command prompt like:

[bluetooth] With your BT speaker on, type this:

scan on look for [New]........ something that looks familiar (Wireless Gamepad) pair trust quit

source

A wise entity Eko in DD-WRT Forum wrote this:

On setup page: uncheck "Use DNS masq for DNS" On "Administration" -> "Services": DNSMasq: add Code: dhcp-option=3,x.x.x.x to "Additional DNS Options" (x.x.x.x is your gateway)

and.... this works yeah

Note to myself...

So I have changes, but want the newest stuff in the upstream master (I guess that's the name)

First add(stage) all your changes:

git add .

Them put them on "hold"...

git stash

Now get the new stuff

git pull

And bring your changes back

git apply

Git stashing Docu

He strikes again... Teaching Tech with his all in one rear mounted electronics case.
Ok almost, since I have cable chains on my printer

But hey this guy has a remix with a my cable chain connector, but not my MKS GenL 1.0 board, meeehh

Hmm after about 5 min thinking and the power of sharing (and Fusion 360) I combined them to the Ender 3 all in one, universal rear electronics case - Right Case mks gen l with dragchain connector, printed it and now I have the electronics in the trunk too

Yes this is crooked, it will be next

yes it's true I killed my Ender 3, RIP.

Ok RoSP maybe? Since it is kind of hard to destroy extruded aluminium profiles and the like so one could say it is brain dead?! (nice movie) Since the Mainboard (is this the right name?) and 3 of 4 stepper drivers are not working any more.

How did that happen you ask?

Hmm some stupid guy wanted to install one of then ass cheap Chinese filament run out sensors and had that what could possibly go wrong attitude.

To be fair this my first time to actually break any 3d Printer electronics and I'm playing with this stuff now for about 10 years. Of cause there is no schematic or documentation or googleable infos for my "sensor". And the connector fitted perfectly into a end stop socket of the MKS Gen L 1.0.

For some reason on my test setup with a ramps 1.4@µ24v it worked fine, I guess that's why Chinese stuff is so dirt cheap, the "optimize" an Arduino Mega and a Ramps into a MKS Gen L 1.0 while at it just remove some not so important components.

I will never know since it's just too cheap and not open source (yes I look at you MKS Gen L 1.0) so I replaced them with the same items.

Is my Ender 3 now one of The Printing Dead community? It's came back to life after it died or is it more a Frankenstein Printer do I have to call it Herman now?

I realized I will never be done modding my Ender 3....

Newest list of changes and the result of the mod:

• Installed a MKS Gen L 1.0 board with TMC2208 in drop in mode thing, no spi, no serial
  • Soo quiet now I love it but those fans...
• Replaced the electronics fan with a Noctua 40x40x10 12v with one of these Mini dc-dc XM1584 step-down modules
  • Cooling is fine, I guess, no problem yet and I can not hear it... almost, 95% of the time there are way more noise from other sources.
• Replased the PSU fan screws with some of these rubber screw thingies
  • PSU fan is now more silent too
• Installed a E3D Titan Extruder with this bracket
  • Almost no more clicking due to skipped extruder steps and I guess better print quality

I guess I'm done modding my Ender 3..... for now

This nice guy from down under Teaching Tech / Youtube has a lot of good videos and I got most inspiration from him.

List of changes and the result of the mod:

• Boot loader the the stock electronics and updated Marlin
• Added cable drag chains to the bed and gantry thing with the Extruder, X axis and hot end thing
  • I had no accidentally unplugged Extruder motors since that so yes it helps.
• Replaced the stock part cooling fan and fan duct with a 5050 Petsfang
  • way better cooling performance
  • not so sure about fan noise
• added these yellow springs
  • Not sure if it helped with anything but is was cheap
• Added Stepper Dampers on X and Y
  • lowered the noise a little
• Added a BL Touch
  • Hell yeah, auto bed leveling.... I will never go back to manual!!!!1!!

Note to myself...

My changes should be Committed to my current master or AwesomeNewFeature branch

Add origin repo...

git remote add upstream http:// original repo.git

Get current version

git fetch upstream

Get my stuff back into working directory

git checkout master / AwesomeNewFeature

With some luck I can merge the upstream master with my branch

git merge upstream/master

Upload to Github

git push

Some hardware test run very long, like 2 000 000 cycles or more in reliability or life tests. Obviously these tests run for months and have to be monitored. It's not nice to loose 10k cycles because one of the units decided to stop for some reason on Friday@1705h. Or one unit stopped 10 min after the one manual check a day (because normally they run for weeks without a problem).

The classic way is to do check all the units manually and maybe several times a day too and even on weekends. This is kind of time consuming since you can easily have like 20 units running at a time and to be honest it's not that interesting to do too.

But if you happen to have a nice interface to ask the units for their states and even give them commands to do stuff e.g. some XML based SSH network connection, you can automate a lot of this checking.

And with some additional coding you can get

• a nice daily status email
• a web page with the current status (updated every 30 min, we do not want to stress the units too much)
• an emergency email on Friday@1730h with logs of the troubled unit so you can decide if you should do a remote check and just restart something or have to return to the office or wait until Monday because it's completely burned down.

This saves time which can be spent on different (more challenging) tasks.

The Idea:

It would be nice to be able to the push all the physical OCP buttons by software (Network/TCP/IP).

In test automation some times the device or firmware is in a state where physical user input is required. E.g. the device was powered down or there is an "internal IP range" select thing and no other interface is running yet or just simple does the Open Mailslot button fire the correct OCP screen (we can read the OCP content by OCP automation)

It could look like this:

Device X e.g. Raspberry Pi:

• Connects to the network
• Connects to an Interface Card e.g. by GPIOs

Interface Card e.g. 8x Relay board :

• Connects to the OCP buttons.

Software:

• A REST server receives commands and pushes the buttons.

Future Versions:

• LED state detection (OpenCV?)
• Device under test serial port access able by network too

Current Version (prototype thing):

Hardware:

• Cables are soldered to the OCP buttons and connected to a 8 channel relay board
• This board is connected to a Raspberry Pi by GPIO
• The pi is connect to the Network.

Software:

• On the Pi runs a python REST server (Flask is your friend)
• It uses the Rasp Pi GPIOs to switch the relays
• The Raspberry Pi Camera runs a a webcam
• For manual pushing it shows a web page with links to push the buttons and the webcam image
• For automated button pushing a simple http request can be made http://[IPofRaspi:SomePort]/key/enter?timepressed=3000

SourceCode

Problems:

Hardware:

• Right now there are more than 8 buttons, so we need more / all

Software:

• We can only push one button at a time,
• Camera integration not so nice yet

And a really "high" quality demo video OCPButtonsDemo.mp4